You’ve arrived at your ryokan (旅館, a traditional Japanese inn) and caught your breath in your room. Next up is the large shared bath (大浴場).
Soaking in a big bath at your leisure, washing away the tiredness of the trip — when you stay at a ryokan, it’s a time you’ll really want to enjoy.
But getting naked in front of strangers can take a little courage the first time. Maybe you’re not sure of the etiquette. Or you have tattoos and wonder whether you can go in. You may have worries like these.
Knowing a few rules is enough to bathe the right way. And if you can’t go in, or don’t want to, there are other ways to have a soak.
First, here’s what this article covers.
- How to bathe — rinse your body before getting into the tub. Keep your towel out of the water
- Something to look forward to — two different baths, at places where the men’s and women’s baths switch between morning and night
- When you feel shy in front of others — you can walk around covered with a small towel. There’s also the option of a private bath or the bath in your room
- If you have tattoos — ask your accommodation before you book. A private bath or the bath in your room can also be an option
1 To the large bath — the entrance is marked “男” or “女”
Take the small towel provided in your room and head to the large bath. A big bath towel is usually in your room or in the changing room.
What to wear between your room and the large bath, and more about the yukata (浴衣, a light cotton robe), will be covered in “Shoes Off, Slippers and Yukata.”
At the entrance to the large bath, a noren (のれん, a fabric curtain hung in the doorway) hangs down. If it says “男” (men), it’s the men’s bath (男湯); if it says “女” (women), it’s the women’s bath (女湯).
Many places use blue noren for the men’s bath and red for the women’s, but it isn’t a fixed rule. Remember the shape of the characters, not the color.
At some places, the men’s and women’s baths switch depending on the time, so check the characters every time you go in.
2 How to bathe — rinse your body before you get in the tub
In the changing room, take off all your clothes. No swimsuits, either.
Once you’re in the bathing area, rinse off (かけ湯) and wash your body before getting into the tub. The washing area usually has a stool, a bucket, a shower, and soap and shampoo.
Rinsing off means pouring hot water over your body with a bucket. Start with your hands and feet, then the rest of you. It gets your body used to the hot water and helps you avoid a sudden rise in blood pressure.
The cleaner and more prepared you are, the more comfortable you’ll feel, even sharing the tub with others.
In the tub
The tub is a place to relax quietly. It’s your time to soak slowly in the water and let the tiredness of the trip melt away. So if you talk, keep your voice down.
The water is for everyone. To keep it clean, don’t put your small towel in the water — fold it and put it on your head, or leave it on the edge of the tub. Tie up long hair before you get in, too.
Some people don’t like the idea of being photographed naked. Leave your smartphone in the changing room, and don’t take photos.
For your body
Avoid bathing after drinking alcohol.
Before you get in, drink about a glass of water.
You don’t have to get everything perfect from the start, so there’s no need to worry too much. Once you’ve looked over the rules, take a deep breath. Then all that’s left is to enjoy the water.
3 Something to look forward to — a different bath in the morning and at night
At some places, the men’s and women’s baths switch between morning and night, so you can bathe twice, in two different baths.
After the switch, a different bath from the one you had at night is waiting for you. If you only go in at night, you’ll leave without ever knowing the other one.
Ask about the switch time when you check in. If a sign says “男女入替,” it means the men’s and women’s baths switch.
Before a morning bath, too, have a glass of water.
4 When you feel shy about being naked in front of others
The changing rooms are separate for men and women. Almost all large baths are separate for men and women, too.
Between the changing room and the tub, it’s fine to walk with a small towel covering your front.
It may feel a little strange at first. But in Japan, bathing with other people is completely normal. People around you are usually careful not to stare, too.
If it still bothers you, a private bath or the bath in your room
Some ryokan have baths you can use with just your family or companions. Broadly, there are two kinds.
- The bath in your room — attached to your room, so you can use it anytime
- A private bath (貸切風呂) — a bath you reserve for a set time. It’s also called a “家族風呂” (family bath). It needs a booking, so ask at the front desk when you arrive at your accommodation
They often cost extra or come with a higher room rate, but some places let you use them for free.
You can soak in the same water with your family or partner without having to worry about anyone else. It’s a perfect way to bathe if you feel shy around others. Choosing a ryokan with a bath in the room is one option, too.
5 If you have tattoos
At some places, there’s still a way to soak even if you have tattoos. There are three possible options.
- Ask your accommodation before you book
- If your tattoo is very small, some onsen (温泉, hot spring baths) let you in with it covered by a sticker
- Some ryokan let you use a private bath or the bath in your room
Whether you can go in varies a lot from ryokan to ryokan. There’s no set rule for all of Japan; each accommodation decides for itself.
Ask your accommodation before you book
If you’re concerned about your tattoos, contact your accommodation before you book. Try asking in English, in the message field when you book or by email.
Some ryokan have no particular restrictions on tattoos, and some say one small tattoo is no problem. If you also tell them roughly how big your tattoo is, it’ll be easier for them to answer.
For a very small tattoo, a sticker
Some onsen provide or sell stickers for covering tattoos. Only very small tattoos can be covered. When you ask before booking, you can check at the same time whether you can go in with a sticker.
If the large bath doesn’t work out, a private bath or the bath in your room
Some ryokan have a private bath or baths in the rooms besides the large bath, so guests with tattoos can still enjoy a bath.
You can take your time soaking with just your own group, without worrying about anyone watching. It’s a way to really savor a Japanese bath.
For now, just this
- Before getting into the tub, rinse off and wash your body
- Don’t put your small towel in the water. Put it on your head or on the edge of the tub
- Look at the noren for the characters “男” and “女,” not the color
- At places where the men’s and women’s baths switch, go to the other bath after the switch
- If you feel shy around others, there are private baths and baths in the room
- If you have tattoos, ask your accommodation before you book
Then all that’s left is to soak slowly and wash away the tiredness of your trip.
